Reflections on Delhi
Delhi scares me.
After an emergency meeting two months ago, the chief minister of Delhi, Arvind Kejriwal, decided to close all 1800 schools in the city for three full days because of extreme air pollution. All citizens were recommended to stay indoors. Since heavy traffic cuts right through the city, some scientists say it’s even too late to save the city. One day, not too far away, it will have to be abandoned.
In WHO’s urban air quality database, Delhi is ranked the most polluted city in the world. At least, that’s what I’ve heard. When I Google it I realise the ranking has changed – in 2016 Delhi dropped from 1st to 11th place. Unsure if it depends on the pollution getting worse in other cities or an actual improvement in Delhi, I, before we leave our Nizamuddin West hotel for Humayan’s 16th century tomb, acquire and strap on a N95 dust mask.
The smog is massive. Then it starts to rain. ‘At least this will clear the sky,’ someone says. ‘Rather, it will bring the smog down to ground level,’ I think. We continue to the 73 metre brick minaret and close to 800 years old Qutab Minar and I’m blown away by its beautiful design. The rain keeps falling but something starts to change in me. I have a Pepsi and some chowmein. I buy a scarf. The sky clears.
We get an auto rickshaw to the National Gallery of Modern Art. The cats and dogs on the paintings of K. G. Subramanyan all have wings. We walk around Connaught Place. The traffic is the same as any other Indian city. A bit chaotic, but nothing I haven’t seen before. I have the best onion masala dosa I’ve ever had.
I talk to people. Outside our hotel we get acquainted with the neighbourhood dog, Hero. He hangs out with two old men who own a heater. When we call out for Hero he runs up to us. We ask for directions to a place to eat and are taken to a elegantly decorated restaurant in the Muslim quarters. The dark alleyways are still.
A dog is sleeping on top of a car. We return to the old men, Hero and the heater. I put away my dust mask. I want them to see me smiling. I think - I’m not sure, but I think – that maybe, I see the city, and it no longer scares me.